Brisket Bonanza
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Fall always stirs my yearnings for foods like soups, pears, apples and root vegetables.  One of my favorite fall menus is an earthy menu of Fennel-Onion Bisque, Polenta Bread (from Breads), Watercress-Pear-Aged Jack-Candied Walnut Salad, Smoked Spiced Brisket with parsnips and carrots, Curried Cream Potatoes (from the Food Lover's Guide to Meat & Potatoes) and Baked Caramel Apples with spiced whipped cream (from Never Eat More Than You Can Lift).  My mouth waters just thinking about it!  Following is the smoked brisket recipe--a great dish for entertaining because the brisket is briefly smoked, then oven-braised for two hours, leaving the host plenty of time to do other things.  

SMOKY SPICED BRISKET  Brisket is the beef cut commonly used for corned beef--it's also the meat of choice for quintessential barbecue.  There are two cuts of brisket:  The point cut is the thicker of the two and is marbled with fat, which adds flavor; the flat cut is thin and quite lean.  Either will work for this recipe, but I prefer the point cut with its added flavor.  This preparation method delivers the best of two worlds by combining the rich, smoky flavor of brisket cooked on the grill (which can take 8 hours) with the ease of oven braising.  The purpose of the brief grilling is to smoke and brown the meat, not to cook it, so it's important for the vents to be barely open to keep the smoke in and the fire relatively low.  Although the garlic goes into the pot unpeeled, be sure to rub off any excess papery skin.  Pop the buttery-soft cloves of cooked garlic out of their skins and spread either on the meat or chunks of hearty bread.  Not only is this leftover brisket great for sandwiches and cold beef salad, but it makes a killer hash!

Serves 6 to 8
2 teaspoons salt
1 1/2 teaspoons freshly ground pepper
1 1/2 teaspoons each ground allspice and nutmeg (the latter preferably freshly ground)
3/4 teaspoons each ground cinnamon and cloves
3 tablespoons olive oil
4- to 4 1/2- pound beef brisket, well trimmed of fat
2 medium onions, cut into 1/4-inch slices and separated into rings
3 cups beef stock or broth
1 cup full-bodied red wint such as Zinfandel or Cabernet Sauvignon
2 heads garlic, separated into cloves but unpeeled
1 pound each parsnips and carrots, peeled, trimmed and cut into 2-inch chunks
    The night (or at least 8 hours) before cooking the brisket, combine salt, pepper, allspice, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a small bowl;  stir to make a paste.  Rub paste over all surfaces of brisket, pressing into meat (if you don’t want to use your fingers, use the back of a tablespoon).  Wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate. 
    At least 1 hour before grilling the brisket, soak 2 cups wood chips in water to cover; remove meat from refrigerator. When ready, light fire in outdoor grill according to manufacturers directions.  Just before beginning to grill, sprinkle drained wood chips over heat source; adjust upper and lower grill vents so they’re only open a quarter of the way.  Place brisket on grill, making sure that spice rub stays on meat and not on plastic wrap.  Cover grill and cook brisket 10 minutes; turn meat and grill second side 10 minutes.
    Meanwhile, preheat oven to 350oF.  Heat remaining 1 tablespoon oil in a Dutch oven or very large ovenproof pot.  Over medium-high heat sauté onions, stirring occasionally, until nicely browned, about 15 minutes.  Add beef stock and wine; bring to a boil.  Remove from heat; place smoked brisket on top of onions.  Cover and bake for 1 hour.  Add garlic, parsnips and carrots; cover and bake 45 minutes or until meat is fork-tender.  
    Turn off oven.  Transfer brisket, apples and garlic to a platter; return to oven with door open.  Set the pan over high heat; cook until reduced by a third.  Salt and pepper to taste.  Slice brisket at an angle and across the grain.  Pass the au jus with the meat. 

© Sharon Tyler Herbst, from the Food Lover's Guide to Meat & Potatoes